Switzerland - India Diary
Mt Pilatus
A Trip to Switzerland and India in summer of 2022 (July 3 - Aug 1)
July 3: Flight to Zurich
Pavan dropped us off at LAX 4 hours before the flight after missing the Tom Bradley terminal once while we were engrossed in some political discussions. We had to exit the airport, take a u turn and come back.
It was good we came early. The Asian guy at the checkin counter said that we could only take one piece of hand luggage each, which was wholly unexpected– we ended up checking in my carry on bag. The security check, which also involved a sniffer dog, went by pretty quickly.
Our SwissAir flight was from gate 159. Me and Shonu decided to get mocha from Starbucks. It was a long long long walk. There was a long line at the end of which we ended up ordering from the Starbucks app. Big mistake. The app predicted a totally bogus wait time of 8 minutes. After waiting for about double that time, we were told it would be another half hour before the barista even got to our order. Ended up canceling the order for which I had to dial another number, during which I received half a dozen panicked calls from Kamini to inform us that boarding had started. We rushed to the gate and got in line. Boarding was uneventful except for the checker who bizarrely let both me and Kamini in before Shonu, which didn’t sit too well with Kamini.
July 4: Zurich Day 1
Watched two movies - Tracks, about a woman who crosses the Australian desert with her black dog and some camels, and The Talented Mr Ripley, about a con artist suavely played by Matt Damon. The flight was uneventful except for our Vegetarian Indian meal being missed in translation. Mercifully, there was a standard vegetarian meal with pasta that saved the day. It had a salad, a piece of bread and cheese. The pasta would have been tasty with a bit of salt. Following this, we hit the sack for the next 6-7 hours. It wasn’t the ultimate in comfort, but managed to get some sleep. We landed in Zurich at 3:10pm. From the air, Zurich seemed very green and clean.
There was a train to another terminal. The immigration was the easiest I have experienced. No pesky forms to fill, no churlish immigration officer with suspicion-laced questions. The elderly officer was business like and just asked us our destination and duration of stay, stamped our passports, and we were in Switzerland. A model to aspire to for every country - India and US in particular. Bags came very quickly and we exited the airport.
A Pakistani driver took us to our hotel, talking to us in Hindi all the while. He was from someplace in northern Pakistan and had been in Zurich for 30 years. I told him about my Karachi connection as usual. He was about to retire. He told us Grindelwald was his favorite place in the country. He was full of praise for the country but said it was very expensive. We reached the hotel - Adagio Aparthotel - in about 15 minutes.
We had to wait for about 10-15 minutes to check in. Our room was on the 5th floor. We took the wrong elevator and had to carry our luggage, huffing and puffing, up a short flight of stairs.
The room was small but very well equipped with a queen bed, a pullout single bed, a kitchenette (all appliances by Gorenge), a fan (Furber.cool brand) closets, a table and chairs and a nice bathroom with fragrant soap. Shonu and me played a game of observing all these things in the room, and items from my backpack, just like she used to do sitting in the toilet as a 1 year old. Grogu and Barfi have smuggled their way in the luggage and are now lounging on the bed.
We were all tired but took a shower, freshened up, and went for a walk to an Indian restaurant nearby – New Bombay. It was about 20 minutes away. We walked through a pleasant street with many restaurants and shops. All the signs were in German which reminded us of Frankfurt. The restaurant was in a street that had a village feel. The seating was outdoor. We ordered Shahi paneer, bhindi masala and garlic naan. Shonu ordered a coke and we ordered a sweet lassi each. Unfortunately, a bee took a great liking to the coke and spent the better part of the meal harassing us. It didn’t care for the lassi or the food, but it took a strong fancy to the coke. The food was average in my opinion, and overpriced. But we needed the comfort food to reset our system.
On the way back, we walked along the river, which seems to be a nice feature of many European cities. We stopped at a grocery store by the river called Coop. This is one of my favorite things to do in a new country. The store had a bewildering range of brands very different from what we are used to. It was a most interesting experience and gave us insight into the local culture. We had to use google translate to read the ingredient labels. Shonu bought some loose Lindt chocolate balls and I struggled with printing a label identifying the product and it’s weight. I asked for help from an Indian person who tried but wasn’t able to help. A Chinese woman knew how and helped me. Things were a little more complicated than required because the cashier spoke only German.
We walked back to the hotel, had the Lindt chocolate, which was delicious, and retired to bed.
July 5: Zurich Day 2 - city walk
Woke up at 3:00am due to jet lag. Found that Shonu and Kamini were also awake. Shonu wanted to wake up and play but made her lie down for some more time till 5am.
At 5am, woke up, had coffee and cheese sandwich, and got ready by 8:45. Shonu and me also had a parfait bought from Coop. Turned out to be too heavy for me and made me feel lethargic.
Went on a walking tour of the downtown area starting with a walk across the Mühlsteg bridge which had locks along the railings just like in Frankfurt. Walked down to the waterfront and sat on a bench, observing the swans and the city view. People were walking, biking and taking the tram to work. But it was all very laidback. It couldn’t really be described as a rush hour, more like a stroll hour.
From there, we proceeded to walk uphill and reached a park called Lindenhof with panoramic views of the city. A helpful woman provided us directions to the park when we were lost. The park is at an elevation and has lovely views of the river, and the city behind it going all the way up into the hills. We could also see the church spires which were like landmarks on our route.
The people here seem to be warm and helpful and not in a rush. Another woman informed us that cars are fined if they don’t stop at the yellow lined pedestrian crossings and that we could confidently walk across even if a car was approaching.
From Lindenhof, we walked downhill and reached a sleepy village street with Swiss flags and stores on both sides that were not yet open. We walked along the streets towards a big gilded clock tower attached to a church - St Peter. We went inside and found a woman tuning the piano. The atmosphere inside was meditative and sleep inducing. We sat down for a couple of minutes and then left.
From here, we walked south along narrow, quintessentially European streets towards our next destination. There were charming side streets with little shops and cafes going uphill or downhill.
We took one such side street uphill and emerged by the river. A brief walk along it brought us to another church -Fraumünster. It was closed so we strolled over to a large town square adjacent to it. We had a mocha sitting at a little street cafe. It was rather expensive and just Ok tastewise. Shonu was observing sparrows flying and hopping around the cafe, looking for crumbs. Some of them looked in robust health.
We went inside the church courtyard and saw some interesting figures carved in stone on the walls. We came out near the river where there was an impressive statue of a man on a horse - Hans Waldmann - mayor of Zurich in the 15th century.
We walked across the Wühre an der Limmat bridge to the next destination, also another church called Grossmünster.
Inside, there was some dazzlingly beautiful frosted glass artwork. The sun rising behind it made the colors radiate with fiery intensity. A glorious tune broke out on the organ, which was located upstairs and was itself a work of art. After sitting for a few minutes, we came out and headed back to the hotel. On the way, we stopped at Coop and picked up lunch - calzones and samosas! Shonu also picked up her favorite stroop waffles.
It was a delicious and economical lunch after the extravagance of the first day. We felt jet lag kicking in and had a post lunch nap till about 5pm.
I went down and got some coffee pods for the Nespresso machine and we had some good coffee. Then we walked to the Zurich HB train station nearby. There was a tourist info room from where we bought the Swiss rail pass and the free family travel card which enabled Shonu to travel free. The African gentleman at the counter was very helpful and provided us lots of information.
We exited the station another way and came across gelato in a cafe. Shonu took raspberry sorbet and me and Kamini took strawberry. It was refreshing and delicious.
We walked back to the hotel. Kamini went to sleep without having dinner. Shonu and me had samosa sandwich and 1/4th calzone from morning and hit the sack.
July 6: Zurich Day 3 - Luzern, Mt Pilatus
Woke up at 4:45am. Slept better last night. Shonu also woke up. She had stroop waffle and Ovaltine. We had coffee and muesli which we had soaked overnight. A very healthy breakfast. Shonu also had to have muesli although she didn’t like it as much. We also had leftover samosa sandwich and calzone.
Got ready and left for the Zurich HB station at 7:30am. Train to Luzern was from platform 8 at 8:10am. It was a double decker train and we sat in the upper berth.
The train left on time and soon descended into a tunnel. It re-emerged after a while as it neared a station. Then it stayed above ground and passed through neat little towns with quaint homes and apartment blocks with manicured lawns and tightly laid out parking spaces. A lake could be seen in the distance. The towns were all so clean, green and pretty, it was unreal. Even the wild grass growing by the side of the tracks didn’t appear unkempt and was adorned with hundreds of tiny wild flowers. There was no brown or dead grass unlike Simi Valley. Everything was green. It was like a story book land. Cloud draped mountains could be seen in the distance and added to this feeling of being in a paradise. Neatness seems to be innately part of the Swiss DNA. So far the only downside to Switzerland is the smoking culture. Everywhere you go, there is the smell of cigarette smoke.
After an hour the train pulled into Luzern which was marked by a large lake. A remarkable cloud adorned mountain loomed in the distance. Was this Mount Pilatus, our destination?
We took the RB-1 shuttle to Krien. Nobody had asked for tickets so far. From here it was a short 15 minute walk to the gondola. We had to buy tickets here though they were half price thanks to the Swiss travel pass and Shonu’s ticket was free.
The gondola was a small cabin with just us and we had to get on while it was moving, albeit slowly. It ascended swiftly up the mountain and we were treated to some outstanding views of the lake, mountains and town receding in the distance behind us, and the forest on the mountain slope ahead and below us rushing to meet us. We had the same view that birds flying low over the mountain just above the tree tops would have had. We could even make out the tiny wild flowers growing in the wild grass below.
After about 20 minutes of this, we reached a transfer point called FRÄKMÜNTEGG where the gondola ride ended and we had to take a cable car to the top. The views from here of the summit were breathtaking for want of a better word and the air pristine. An unspoken terror flashed through my mind to see the steep cables on the second leg wind their way up into the cloud covered peak.
A few photos later, we were on the cable car along with 20 other people. The views from the side windows put the gondola ride to shame. As the car approached the top, the wisps and tendrils of cloud gently floating about lent the place a magical, dream like texture. The vistas below were almost incomprehensibly beautiful. It was a day for sensory overload that hadn’t ended yet.
We exited the cable car onto the lower level of a viewing platform. It was chilly on the open upper level and we had the same insane views. We took a flight of steps to a view point. It was very steep and the air here was thin. Shonu had some difficulty climbing and was out of breath. Wild flowers lined the sides greeting us throughout the ascent. The 360 degree views were almost too much and as if in concurrence, a cloud rolled in obscuring the view from one side. There were birds that looked like crows except they had yellow beaks. They were scavenging for crumbs from visitors.
More photos later, we climbed back down and took a fork to another path halfway through. This path turned out to be a dead end but nevertheless gifted us some amazing perspectives.
We went back to the top deck and had some snacks - blueberries, cheese and orange soda. Then we lined up for the cogwheel train. This train descends down the mountain at a remarkable 48% grade, the steepest in the world, assisted by a geared wheel that fits into a toothed middle rail and provides traction up and down the slope. An engineering marvel.
At the base of the mountain, we had a light lunch at Gleis Drei Bistro right outside the cogwheel train station. We ordered a homemade lemonade with ginger, lime, elderberry and fresh mint which was refreshing and energizing. We also got a flatbread topped with vegetables and cheese and a raviolini stuffed with cheese and vegetables. They were both very well presented and delicious. Just what we needed. A bee troubled Shonu again although it wasn’t as aggressive as the one in Zurich.
After lunch, we walked to the boat terminal and were greeted by a gorgeous view of cloud flecked mountains. It was ridiculous how beautiful this country was.
We sat on the lower deck indoors but got good views through large windows. Me and Shonu were tired and dozed off from time to time. The views, needless to say, were spectacular. The mountain slopes covered in grass that seemed to have been freshly mowed, the homes with spectacular lake views.
Back in Luzern, we quickly walked a famous wooden covered bridge and headed back to Zurich via train. Shonu and me nodded off again in the train.
Back in the hotel, we freshened up, had coffee and stroop waffle, and Kamini and Shonu lay down for a few minutes that turned into hours. Meanwhile, I downloaded and edited photos.
At 9pm, I woke them up, we had a light cheese and cucumber sandwich for dinner and called it a day.
July 7: Zurich Day 4 - Bern, Interlaken, Grindelwald
Headed to Bern today on the IC8 train from platform 31 two levels below ground. The trains run entirely smoothly without the clickety noise unlike India. Probably because this is not a hot country, so the rails don’t expand as much and less gap is required between rails. Industrial looking towns on the route today punctuated by rolling hills and farms. Look like wheat or other grain farms. Seeing brown hay fields for the first time.
Lots of graffiti, some even on trains and buildings. And long subterranean stretches. Although four languages are spoken in Switzerland, German seems to be the de facto so far, at least in this part of the country. All signs are in German and it is the language everyone speaks.
The CH in the internet domain suffix and the currency prefix (CHF for Swiss franc) stands for Confederatio Helvetica, meaning Swiss Confederation, Helvetia being the Latin name for the country. It has apparently been independent since the Middle Ages. Being mountainous might be the reason why. Population 8.5M, less than half of Mumbai’s 19M! GDP 750B (India’s is just 3.5 times at 2.6T despite having 162 times the population and 80 times the area). They borrowed federal ideas from the US, as a result of which the cantons into which it is divided are autonomous. They have a system of direct democracy rather than representative democracy, which I suppose means that the citizens vote on all issues.
After an hour of travel, we are in Bern, the Swiss capital. From the train, it seems like a beautiful city with a lovely riverfront, and multiple levels on account of a hilly terrain. To exit the station, we have to descend one level and then come back up. Bern seems a bit more built up than Zurich, a little older. Lots of buses and trams outside the station. And cigarette smoke.
It’s a 7-8 minute walk to our first stop - the Swiss parliament. It is set in a large town square with old buildings to each side. The parliament itself is impressive and imposing as these buildings typically are, with a gilded dome and flag wielding figures on top just beneath the dome. There are statues of stern looking old men inset into either side of the entrance. I tell Shonu that most ancient architecture glorifies men and ignores women.
A few photos later, we walk another 10 minutes to a church - The Cathedral of Bern - an ancient gothic church with a 100m high spire. It is closed but we get some views from outside. There are boys (gargoyles, Shonu tells me) in stone high above, screaming at us.
A further walk leads us to an expansive vista of the city with the river in the distance below. There are lots of school kids who seem to be on a visit to the city.
A few minutes later, we are at Zytglogge (clock tower), a 13th century medieval tower which is a UNESCO world heritage site. Every hour, the figures on the clock - a jester, a king, a rooster and several servants - animate and entertain visitors. We had just missed the 10 o clock cycle and would have to wait another hour.
We walked down 2 minutes Kramgasse to Einstein Haus, the preserved residence of Albert Einstein, who lived here between 1902 and 1909. In this very modest house, he developed his earth-shattering theories - the theory of relativity, the quantum theory of light for which he received the Nobel prize, explanation of Brownian motion proving the existence of molecules. We saw some old photographs, his furniture, including a sofa, items of clothing, personal artifacts like books, notebooks. It seemed amazing that an inhabitant of so unremarkable a house had contributed so monumentally to our understanding of the cosmos, even upstaging a genius like Newton. There was a short movie upstairs about his life, and an exhibit on different phases of his life. Bought Shonu a poster to remind her of the visit.
We went back to the clock tower near 11am. There was a small crowd under the tower gathered in anticipation. We found the clock to be impressive, but the animations to be underwhelming.
We walked back to the station, stopping along the way near the parliament square, to have a snack of grapes and cheese. Even though it was a working day, people seemed to be very relaxed. The place had the air of a tourist destination. The only downside was the ubiquitous cigarette smoke.
We were just in time to take the train to Interlaken. The scenery along this route was marvelous. Turquoise rivers with green rolling hills, houses in the distance up the hill, tall jagged cloud shrouded mountains in the distance - saturated the eye and the heart towards the end of the journey. Interlaken is just a transit point, but it was as beautiful as any other place we had seen so far. The train ride itself was worth the time and every franc.
As we exited the train, we were casually greeted by mountains stretching to the heavens. What a remarkable sight from a railway platform! And that wasn’t all. There were dreamy, cloud adorned mountains on the other side of the platform as well. It was like being a child in a toy store, an embarrassment of riches.
We walked down to a little park by the river bookended by two bridges. Was this the bridge from DDLJ? There was also a chapel nearby, also a scene in DDLJ. Will leave that to your imagination.
After this walk, me and Shonu got very hungry. The train to Grindelwald didn’t leave us time to get food, so we had a cliff bar to sustain us temporarily.
The route to Grindelwald is mountainous but not as steep as Mt Pilatus. This train used a toothed middle rail as well, but the teeth were pointing up instead of sideways. The train made a grating noise as it climbed. The scenery again was breathtaking. We could even see snow capped mountains in the distance. The south of Switzerland has these bigger mountains. In fact, Interlaken is the gateway to the Jungfrau region, known for mountains and adventure sports. As we neared Grindelwald, gentle rolling manicured hills sprinkled with cottages began showing up. How lucky must the people living there be to wake up to this view every day.
Shonu and me were low on fuel and wanted to eat. We went into a restaurant near the station. Kamini had fondue, which is a cheese sauce into which you dip bread, and boiled vegetables. It was unique and tasty with a mild alcoholic tinge. Shonu had spaghetti which was very tasty. I had an alpine macaroni with potatoes which was also tasty.
Next we took a walk through Grindelwald town, which I found rather touristy. I wanted to walk on the hills but it was too far and we didn’t have energy to hike.
I took naps on the way back which involved 3 trains all of which we had to scramble to catch. I was knocked out by the time we reached back to Zurich. Kamini also was tired although she wouldn’t admit it. She lay down and refused to wake up for dinner. Me and Shonu just had one apricot tart each, which was sufficient given the heavy and late lunch.
July 8: Zurich Day 5: Rhine Falls, Heididorf
Woke at 4:30am but felt fresh. Threw trash, did some packing to save time and left at 7:35. Took 8am S12 train to Rhine Falls on Neuhasen. Another scenic route through picture book villages. We had bought some snacks from a Migros store at the station - pretzels, choco filled bread, croissants - all very cheap - just 1 franc each.
Reached at 9am. The path to the falls left from the station itself. Took a path down to get one view of the falls. From this view, the falls seemed unimpressive. Not very high but they did make a loud roar. Climbed up some stairs and took an elevator up a tall tower to the visitor center which seemed closed. Bought tickets for 13 francs through a kiosk. There was a gaggle of school kids that had come for a visit.
Entered the gate and immediately there was a view of the entire falls down below. The falls covered a wide area and there was significant force to the water. There were a couple of small rocky islands in the middle of the falls which could be approached by boat. The water was quite choppy and we decided against the boat ride. Down a few steps, there was another vantage point up close and personal with the falls. From this perspective, the falls seemed more respectable. We could see, hear and feel (the spray) the fury of the water from here. Given just a small drop, water and gravity conspire to conjure a thing of great ferocity and beauty - a moving, living, surging, throbbing, visceral, ever changing work of art. Many photos and videos later, we climbed back the stairs up to the station. Our train back to Zurich was at 12:50 and it was 12.30. So we had a little snack of pretzel, croissant and chocolate filled bread we had bought earlier.
After reaching Zurich, we revisited Migros and got personal size margherita pizzas and fresh squeezed orange juice(we squeezed it ourselves in the machine) for lunch. Shonu got a blue raspberry slushy. Next destination: Heididorf, a recreation of the village from the children’s classic novel Heidi by Johanna Spyri. From Zurich, we took the IR35 to Bad Ragaz, having the pizzas along the way. From there, a one stop train ride to Maenfield. Then a 5 minute bus ride to Heididorf, followed by a half hour walk to the village. As soon as we got down from the bus, the smell of horse manure informed us were in rural Switzerland. It was an idyllic though uphill walk through vineyards and rustic scenery through a small road winding through open fields and a village. We sat down on benches a couple of times, drinking water from an owl shaped fountain along the way. These fountains are everywhere in Switzerland and you can drink the water right out of them, so there is no need to carry water as such.
After half an hour of huffing and puffing, we reached Heididorf. We bought tickets at the visitor center. Shonu wanted a cuckoo clock but our bags were so full we wouldn’t have had space to fit it.
Heidi’s school, house, grandpa’s barn were all beautifully recreated with period furniture, utensils, and appliances. The mountain setting was also very appropriate and pretty. Shonu had a great time, having read the book 4-5 times. I told her to read it once more after this visit.
After seeing everything, we sat down on a bench under a tree with a beautiful view of the valley below and has some snacks - grapes, cheese and stroop waffle. There were a couple of chickens who sneaked up on us looking for crumbs.
The walk back downhill was much easier. We walked straight to the station instead of waiting for the bus. It took us an additional 10 minutes. There we had to wait half an hour for the train to Bad Ragaz. We waited inside a little glass structure with seating, ostensibly designed for cold weather. Me and Shonu took nice naps on the train back to Zurich.
Back in Zurich, we walked 10 minutes straight to Hiltl, allegedly the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world. It was in a shopping center called Dachterrasse. It was a buffet with various cuisines including Indian, Thai, western and dessert. We took rice, daal, paneer curry, naan, vadai, spring roll, tofu fries, potato salad, mousse, crumble and raspberry tiramisu. All vegan/vegetarian stuff. It was all delicious and welcome after a long day of hard walking. We got milk from Coop on the way back. After getting back to the hotel, we finished packing and then passed out.
July 9: Zurich Day 6: Flight to Mumbai
I got up at 5:15, made coffee and got ready. Kamini and Shonu woke up around 5. By 7:30 we were all ready and checked out. We took a taxi to the airport driven by a quiet but efficient Swiss driver, much like the country itself.
Checked in bags, went through security, passport control and took the train to terminal E. Had expensive mochas from Starbucks and stroop waffles. Strange to have to pay for water on the one hand, but on the other hand, why shouldn’t we have to? It does cost money to purify and pump water.
Onboard the flight, finished watching The Talented Mr Ripley, which was very dark. A sinister performance by Matt Damon nevertheless. It was almost inevitable that he would get away in the end but I would have wished he was brought to justice. Also watched The Electrical Life of Louie Wain, a biopic of Louie Wain, an artist who popularized cats as pets in the early 20th century. Benedict Cumberbatch brings the character and all his eccentricities to life, and does a masterly job portraying his manic energy and slow disintegration as he ages. The music was haunting and beautiful and served as one of the legs the movie stood on.
Also watched The Current War, the epic saga of electric distribution played out between Edison and Westinghouse, with the latter winning thanks to his own vision and the genius of Nikola Tesla, and the former losing due to his refusal to be objective about his ideas. Westinghouse, Tesla and Edison are all heroes who made modern civilization possible by doing the impossible. Imagine the possibilities if they had all been able to work together instead of letting their egos get in the way.
Finally, watched Land, a small budget movie about a woman retreating from society who moves into a cabin in the rockies, and her struggles to live and love living again. Robin Wright gives a heartfelt performance as Edee, but D Bichir steals the show as Miguel, a reflective, modern day Yoda, who shows Edee the way.
July 10: Arrive in Mumbai
Land in Mumbai at 12:50am. A farcically long walk to immigration. Although the queue is not very long, there is a long wait to get to the counter because of problems with the fingerprint device. It doesn’t register my left hand at all. Luckily it registers my thumbs. Kamini has no such problem and the officer sees the humor in it which is refreshing. Shonu being under-12, doesn’t have to go through this for now.
Our baggage has already been offloaded from the belt which is a nice touch. The bags loaded on the cart are so heavy as to render the cart almost impossible to maneuver. We try for a prepaid taxi but they only have small cars. So we book an Uber XL and head to level P4 west after some spilled baggage and some testy exchanges. The driver is already waiting for us there.
A short ride later we are in Amarjyoti. The new watchman, Rajesh Kumar, greets us and helps with luggage.
Shonu rings the bell and Appa calls out to welcome us. It is great to see him after nearly one year. He looks in good spirits and health other than his knee problem.
We have a shower, Shonu and Kamini have half a wrap each from the flight, and we go to bed after some chatting with Appa.
Wake up at 10:30am after a sound night’s sleep.
Nisha is here and makes fresh hot Poha and coffee/tea for us.
July 14: Hospital visit
Went for follow up visits to Nanavati Hospital. Arjun graciously agreed to accompany me. The Uber I booked canceled so we took an auto. There was heavy traffic as soon as we hit Juhu circle.
Pick up reports at the hospital. Have to pay Rs 1000 for the follow up with Dr Avanish Arora which irks me. He is nice though and doesn’t rush us. He says that there is no cause for worry based on the reports. He is putting him on medication and we are to see him in one month.
Dr Bhosale is also cordial and patiently explains my questions. He said that for him it is a routine procedure which he does every day and has done 17000 of them, that it is not some emergency procedure that has to be done, but is up to Appa how active he wants to be and how much pain he can tolerate. Regarding risk, he said they run a series of tests prior to the surgery and if anything comes up, he wouldn’t do it. He also said he has done it for people in 80s and 90s. He is projecting recovery of few weeks. He sounded confident.
We ricked it back. Arjun has reprioritized his life so as to spend time at home. He has savings from his business projects and his Switzerland stint that enable him to not work and to travel. His other businesses are in lights on mode. He is also on the board of a new engineering school in Shirdi. He isn’t getting paid much but he likes the idea of giving back to the community and is helping develop the program, teaching some computer science courses from time to time and getting his friends to teach.
Dropped Arjun at St. Louis convent lane and picked up the medicines from Wellness.
Watched India vs england 2nd ODI with the bowlers doing a fair job and the batsmen bungling badly. A 100 run loss.
July 15: Train to Ratlam
Left for Ratlam today at 2:20. Appa is down because he isn’t able to come. Feeling bad for him. He came down to see us off. Took Uber XL and arrived at Mumbai Central in about 1 hour at 3:30. No rain and little traffic.
August Kranti Rajdhani express train number 12953 left at 5:10 pm sharp. Arrives in Ratlam at 01:13am. The train has new style coaches with automatic sliding doors like we saw in Swiss trains, and large panoramic windows. They are beautifully painted and air-conditioned, although it is a little too chilly.
We are served tea and snacks as soon as the train leaves. We only have tea which is good. We squirrel the samosas and other snacks into our bag. Call Appa briefly as we cross Andheri.
There are some gorgeous vistas of green countryside and muddy rivers in spate. As we enter Gujarat, it starts raining heavily. It seems to be much more heavy than what we saw in Mumbai but this may be on account of the train’s motion.
Have dinner of chapati, paneer sabji and yogurt rice. Clamber on to the upper berth and write journal.
Train arrives late at 1:30am. Meenu, Vijay and Om Prakash receive us at the station. We pass desperate looking folk on the platform which makes me angry at the policies of the state that are keeping these people poor. Appa is waiting by the car. The drive in the new Tata Tiago hatchback is comfortable. The streets are deserted. We reach home by 2am and are welcomed by Amma.
July 17: Ratlam sight-seeing
Reading The God Delusion. Dawkins is always enjoyable though he could be more concise and less technical. But he has books to sell, so points have to be belabored to fill pages.
Meena Jain and Rudrakshi came by in the evening.
Went to Kalika Mata with Kamu, Shonu and Meenu in car with Om Prakash since the car had been booked earlier. We were to go to other places as well, but it was quite pleasant there, so we decided to stay. Took a little walk around the tank (which is octagonal) in the adjoining garden. The grass was overgrown due to the rains and some cattle had managed to intrude. After exiting the garden, we walked around in the area opposite the temple where there were many food stalls, street vendors, a bouncy slide, horse rides, merry go rounds, car rides for small kids, and an air hockey table. Many poor and middle class families had come for an outing. It felt like Juhu beach sans the ocean. Meenu bought a Sprite upon which Shonu also wanted one. Bought one for her from a food stall that had outdoor tables and looked fairly clean. It had an open kitchen which also seemed well maintained. Decided it was safe to eat there and called Appa Amma over. Meanwhile, Rudrakshi and Meena Jain arrived there on scooter.
Shonu and Rudrakshi played air hockey for some time until Amma Appa arrived.
They joined two tables for us. I ordered pav bhaji, Kamu ordered momos and Shonu ordered cheese pizza. Pav bhaji was good but spicy. It was a lovely atmosphere in the dusk.
Post dinner, Appa Amma left for home with Om Prakash. The ladies did some shopping for earrings. There were small children selling balloons. They seemed to have come with people from rural areas. One little boy was selling an elaborate balloon while playing with it himself. He was that age. He found no takers. Meanwhile, one of the balloons burst and then another. The poor chap was trying desperately to blow new ones up, and failing. Shonu also felt sorry for him and wanted to buy the balloon, but it kept popping and the little fellow went back to his father or grandfather. Luckily, he didn’t get yelled at. I thought that the boy hadn’t done anything to deserve this fate. It was just sheer chance that he had been born poor. And what about the role of the state? It had done nothing to improve his lot in 80 years since independence and quite a bit to actively keep him poor, through its incompetence, apathy and hostility towards its own citizens, and its wrong, outdated, and destructive socialist philosophies. I could do little beyond feeling impotent rage.
]
Dharmarajeshwar
July 19: Trip to Mandsaur, Dharmarajeshwar
Went to Mandsaur by road in a hired Toyota Innova. Kamini and me sat in the third row. I spent the night worrying because I had once sat in the third row of an Innova in Delhi and felt severely claustrophobic. Thankfully, this model was spacious enough to not trigger any fears. Mandsaur is about 90km (1hr 50mins) or about 56 miles from Ratlam. The route passes through Jaora, a small town, which is 37 km (45 mins) or 23 miles. It is a picturesque route passing through fields of soya, bridges over little rivers and streams, little villages with cows and buffaloes and village folk with colorful turbans. Trash collection continues to be a problem in places, Swachh Bharat notwithstanding.
In Mandsaur, had a delicious lunch at Rama bhabhi’s house - bhindi curry, chowla, arvi, roti and rice. This was rounded out by gulab jamun, which was extremely tasty despite being store bought. She wasn’t able to make it from scratch this time due to unavailability of mawa. Also got a tour of plants in their house, of which there were manifold varieties, including a multitude of flowering plants, cactus, aloe, grapes and chikoo. She showed us her gardening process, which was quite elaborate.
From Mandsaur, proceeded to Dharmarajeshwar – a rock cut Shiva temple complex from the 8th-9th century with a Buddhist rock carved vihara adjacent to it from the same period. We were accompanied by bhabhi, Kamakshi, her cousin Raghav and her friend. The route is through flat farmland punctuated by small villages and rivers, of which the Chambal is the biggest. Some villages are poorly maintained with overflowing mounds of garbage presenting an unappealing sight. As we approach, the terrain becomes hilly and the road ascends. There are windmills indicating the prevalence of strong gusts. The driver takes a wrong turn through unpaved road for a short while after which we reach the site. From there, we can see down into the countryside for miles. The site is leafy and well maintained. The temple itself is carved from a monolithic coarse laterite rock. The complex is subterranean and reached by stairs also cut into the rock leading to a wide and tall passage with moss-lined rock walls. The temple complex is visible from above and it seems scarcely credible that all this was carved from a single rock. The floor is prickly due to the coarse rock. Down at the bottom, the temple soars above us into the heavens nearly up to ground level. There are intricate carvings on the exterior but the details have been eroded over time. There is a Ganesh that is distinctive but the rest are unidentifiable. The main temple is still functional, and we visit the sanctum sanctorum where a simple yet striking Shiva’s piercing gaze arrests us. A priest is chanting mantras for a family. Ancillary temples surrounding the main temple are closed. There are stairs leading about halfway up the rock from where a panoramic view of the complex can be had.
Next, we head to the Dhamnar Buddhist section, which is ticketed. Strangely, Paytm is the only accepted payment. After a rebuke by Meenu, the attendants accept cash. The path leading to the complex provides stunning vistas of the countryside made all the more vibrant by the rains. The Buddhist vihara is underwhelming compared to the temple. There are caves with stupas covered with bat droppings accompanied by a stench. There are openings and cutouts from the rock that provide photo opportunities.
We have snacks - popcorn, biscuits - on the ride back to Mandsaur. After passing Basai village - which I bestow with the dirtiest village title - we stop at a high end restaurant called Waves and Club/Midway Treat by MTDC atop a strategically located hillock with sweeping views of the wide and at times violent Chambal river. The restaurant is surprisingly well appointed given the rural location, except for a small battalion of flies which send Shonu into a frenzy. Shonu orders pasta with white sauce. We order tandoori roti and sabjis - paneer handi, another paneer and veg curry and dal makhani. Food is good quality, though a touch spicy.
Back in Mandsaur, we make a couple of social visits and then head back home, reaching at 11:30pm.
July 21
Reading The Beak of the Finch, which is about evolution happening in real-time.
July 22
Meena Jain came in the evening with three kids whom she is teaching henna art. They were about 9,11 and 15 years old. They drew intricate and beautiful patterns on Shonu, Kamini and Paati’s hands, guided by Meenaji. One of the kids is the daughter of vegetable sellers. Meenaji also brought her customary aloo wadas and sabudana khichdi which were all delicious.
I went and exchanged my Kurta which was a little tight around the shoulders.
Booked tickets for Mumbai for 26th at 4:10pm on Indigo through Expedia.
July 23: Amma Appa 50th Anniversary Celebration
Kamini’s parents’ 50th wedding anniversary today. Dal bati arranged by Akshay for lunch with besan gatte ki sabzi, kadi and choorma ladoo. Lunch was at around 1pm. Akshay, Vishal and Vijay and family came for 1st batch. Vijay’s wife, Poornima, is the newly elected local councilor (parshad). Lunch was very tasty. Vijay and Meenu served initial batch of Akshay, Vishal, Vijay’s children, Kamini, Me and Poornima. Vijay serving his wife was a novel but welcome sight.
Had a nap till 4. After waking up, a flood of people arrived. Mandsaur people - Vinod, Rama and Kamakshi, Mahender, wife Sampath and kids, Amisha, Tanisha, (his son Amit is doing AI engineering in Indore), Vinod’s lawyer brother, wife and son Raghav, Suresh. Family from Indore - Prema chithi, Meera chithi, Kumar, Yogesh and Param. Yogesh appeared very ill and lay down to nap.
Vijay and family, Pandya family, Asha, Meena Jain and Rudrakshi also arrived.
Changed into new kurta. Ladies spent one hour getting ready. I sat chatting with Raghav (who was asking me questions in English at his father’s prodding) - he is interested in adventure sports and plans on doing BA-LLB. Also chatted with Mahender ji. He was asking me about America and I asked him about Mandsaur. He told me he was into agriculture, dairy farming, grain brokerage, etc. He is from a nearby village 10-15kms away from Mandsaur.
Sangeet program started around 6pm. Shonu started off with Jiya re and did a wonderful job displaying no nerves. This was followed by a dance by Kamakshi which she did well. Then Shonu and Kamu sang a semi-classical song - Mere dholna which was also very well executed. I was a little nervous performing in front of so many people but managed to reel off a song - Maine tere liye hi saat rang ke - reasonably well. Kamini sitting near me helped. The song was appreciated by all. Then there were more songs and dances - Lalitha Ji sang, Raghav’s mom did ghoomer dance, Param sang Chooker mere man ko though he admitted being nervous, Amisha Tanisha sang a song after several mis-starts, me and Kamu sang Aapki aankhon me kuch, Meenu dedicated a song to Appa (Sivaraman mama), Akshay spoke a few words in praise of Kamini’s parents. Amma also finally sang a song - Kahe ched ched mohe. With that the sangeet concluded and everyone moved to Balaji for dinner.
Vijay wanted me to wear traditional Rajasthani suit so I obliged though it was loose.
Me and Amma went in the car to Balaji. There, we were met by deafening dhol and firecrackers all arranged courtesy Vijay. His son tied safa for me and we waited for Appa. When he, Shonu and Kamu arrived, they tied safa for him as well and the dhol and firecrackers were repeated with pink smoke flares added. It was a wild display followed by unhinged dancing by almost everyone. Even I was unwillingly roped in.
Following this, Amma and Appa were seated on a throne on the dais, and a photo session and cake cutting ceremony followed accompanied by confetti showers. Again over the top arrangements by Vijay.
After a barrage of photo ops with various configurations of guests, we sat down for starters - tomato soup, chili paneer and veg kabab. Kamu and me noticed peanuts in the kabab and alerted the staff. They prepared fresh kababs with no peanuts for us and had also made separate peanut free curries for us. Kamu had told them to make everything peanut free but they apparently misunderstood. The food was all very good though mildly spicy - paneer masala, bhindi, malai kofta, pulav, gulab jamun.
Vijay made me and Kamini exchange garlands for our 20th anniversary. It felt good though strange reliving a 20 year old ceremony.
Many more photo ops later, the ceremony wound up and we paid a brief visit to the hotel rooms where Meera chithi and Prema chithi were put up, Yogesh and Param having left for home earlier. They have a suitcase full of gifts.
The day ended looking over the various gifts people had given us - dresses for Shonu, Kamu and us.
July 24
Lazy day today. Woke up after 9:30. Shonu slept in even longer.
Skipped breakfast since I felt heaviness from yesterday’s rich food.
Had fresh gilki sabzi and daal bati from yesterday.
Read The Beak of the Finch, which provides a history of how Darwin arrived at his monumental theory and how the Grants are providing real-time evidence for the theory through the multifarious finches of the laboratory called Galapagos.
Kamu, Meenu and Amma visited Prema and Meera Chithis in the evening. Shonu, me and Appa stayed behind.
Had khichdi for dinner which was light and easy on the stomach.
Watched Superstar singer with all.
July 25
Vijay brought samosa kachori in the morning. Samosa was super fresh though on the spicy side with a hint of sweetness. Kachori was equally fresh with the dal filling and slightly softer crust providing points of difference. Shonu had just the crust. Jalebi helped take the edge off the spice.
July 26: Flight to Mumbai
Leaving for Mumbai from Indore via Indigo flight at 4:10pm. Got ready by 10am. Walked over to Gurvinder house to say bye. His mom and grandparents spoke to us for a few minutes and offered us coffee and biscuits. Gurvinder had gone to school. Sad that Shonu couldn’t meet him at all this time.
Om Prakash dropped us off at Indore airport. It was a mostly smooth ride though there were quite a few potholes on the highway. We arrived at 1:15 having started at 11:15.
July 27: Trip to Madh Island
Took Uber to The Resort Madh-Marve at 11am. Wanted to get away from city noise and also, take Appa out since he hadn’t really had a vacation in 3 years since COVID struck. It was about a 50 minute drive for 15kms or 10 miles through congested roads of western suburbs like Goregaon and Malad, where apartment buildings, high rises and shanties are mushrooming unchecked. The city’s population has doubled in the last 30 odd years. It was bursting at the seams even back then, but somehow, it continues to defy all that is thrown at it. Until when though? Why isn’t high speed connectivity to satellite cities an express priority? Navi Mumbai is 2 hours away by road despite being only 30 miles away. That is the only way pressure on the city can be eased since overcrowding isn’t going to stop people from pouring into the city.
As we turn left on Madh-Marve road, the scenery changes and becomes lush green. Some stretches are reminiscent of Goa. We pass a huge naval training base - INS Hamla, a dinky little village and finally arrive at the resort at 12:30. After having to scan our bags at security, we enter a foliage lined walkway leading to the entrance. The check in takes longer then expected. I have to provide our IDs again despite having provided them online. One of our rooms is ready, the other will be in a few minutes. We take the elevator up to room 405.
The room is a decent size and well appointed though fraying a little in the tropical climate. There is a large balcony with a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea, the beach and the swimming pool below, restricted only by a bird net. We use the view for some photo ops.
Popular crowd are starting late after lunch at 12:30. We head down to the restaurant downstairs for light lunch. It is right by the pool and the views are very pleasing. Shonu and I order Mac and cheese. Appa and Kamini order veg sandwiches. Shonu gets a Pepsi, I get a 7 Up. The Mac and cheese is very good although the bread is cold and stale. The sandwich is OK.
Meanwhile, Popular crowd arrives at nearly 2pm. We head back up and get our second room’s keys shortly. We get a wheelchair for Appa so that he doesn’t have to walk. Appa takes the first room number 405. Popular crowd files into the other room 404 and after a few minutes we all head down to the beach. Appa takes a nap.
The rain gods’ absence has allowed the sun god to muscle his oppressive presence back in. Popular crowd feel the heat and retreat back to air conditioned comfort. Shonu, Kamini and me continue on to the beach, with courtesy sun umbrellas providing welcome shade. There is a sea breeze blowing that provides relief. The beach itself is long and wide with a creek at one end. Towards the other end, ocean trash has floated in and presents an unseemly sight. Proximity to Mumbai has its pros and cons. We take a walk towards the creek and then head back. There is a spa on premises and we book a slot for Shonu to get a manicure at 4:45, something she has been asking for since Ratlam. We head back up to the room and take a light half hour nap.
Me and Appa have tea while Shonu and Kamini head down to the spa. The teapot needs to be cleaned but the Assam tea is refreshing. Around 5:30, they come back and I make tea for them too. The Popular crowd has headed down to the beach meanwhile and we join them shortly. The path to the beach involves some stairs and uneven sand and rocks, and it is a little difficult for Appa to cross over. Arjun comes out to greet Appa. He also helpfully gets a bhutta from a vendor so that Appa can use his chair.
It has cooled down and walking is now pleasant. Arjun, Shamu, Kamini, Shonu and me take a walk towards the creek. Shamu has to leave for an online yoga class. We all gather around to watch the sunset. The sky is mostly clear and the horizon is cloud free, so we are able to see the sun off on its daily journey towards the Middle East and Africa. Post sunset, the refracted light from the retreating fireball paint the high stringy clouds in various shades of light orange and magenta. The colors aren’t as intense as a Pacific sunset probably due to the enveloping haze.
We head back to the restaurant in preparation for the dinner buffet. We are all seated at a long table with Appa at the head. The buffet has pasta and North Indian food - paneer masala, dal, veg jaipuri, gobi adraki. There is a wait for fresh bread to be served. I get a plate for Appa as well. The bread is fresh and hot when it eventually arrives. The food is mildly spicy and flavorful. There are a variety of desserts - malpua, pudding, rabri and pastries. Unfortunately for Shonu, everything either has egg or walnut. A waiter helpfully offers to bring her a specially made chocolate cupcake which she is able to have.
We end the day by playing a few rounds of Uno in the Popular room number 603.
July 29: Madh Resort Day 2, VWA School Visit
We wake up late the next day at 8:15 and head down to breakfast by 8:30. I get the checkout extended by an hour to 11am. Popular crowd arrives a little later and we move to the big table. I go up to fetch Appa. The breakfast buffet includes a smorgasbord of items - idli, sambhar, upma, live dosa station, pancake and waffle station, puri bhaji, masala oats, cupcakes, tea, coffee. I have a little of idli, dosa, upma and oats and two cups of passable coffee. Shonu has an eggless pancake which is soft and fluffy. Kamini has puri bhaji from which I take a bite.
We shower and return home by 12:30 via Uber. We are all tired and hot and turn on the AC and take a nap till 3:30. We feel a little hungry since we skipped lunch. The Maggi noodles in the kitchen have peanut, so I go down to get Maggi atta noodles which are nut-free. Meanwhile, Appa has ordered a bunch of different noodles through Dunzo - Ching’s Hakka noodles, Top Ramen etc. Totally over the top. Kamini wants to have Top Ramen so I make that followed by chai. It is very tasty.
Shonu, Kamini and me then take a walk to my old school in 7 bungalows - VWA High School. The walk through Ratan Nagar is OK but everything seems more rundown than I remember it. We turn right at the end of the lane and continue on the main road past Bon Bon footwear, which is still around. However, it is a challenge to find the footpath since a bridge has taken over most of it. A monstrosity called the Metro has come up atop the main road - an unaesthetic mountain of concrete that blots out the sun and creates a nether world underneath. Apartment owners who lived by the main road, which was never overly busy in my time, now get to live right next to the railway tracks. Shopping complexes and high rise buildings have sprung up like weeds. The charm of the place is a distant memory in the dark recesses of my mind. It would no longer be feasible to walk to school if I had been a student now. We pass Avinash building, which used to be the tallest building in the area, but is now dwarfed by others. I have fond memories of Avinash library as well from where I read most of the Tin Tin books. The footpath is inundated with hawkers and it is a struggle to cross the road when we reach 7 bungalows. I am confused as to which street to take to the school. Things have changed a lot. There are shops lining the narrow street, piles of garbage and fast traffic that is unmindful of school students walking or trying to cross the road. I walk right past the school since I can no longer recognize it. I rub my eyes to check and the board at the gate provides disbelieving confirmation. The building is in a state of advanced decay. A watchman at the gate gives us an inquiring look. I tell him I studied at the school years ago and he waves me in phlegmatically. The school badly needs a coat of paint and a coat of love. A broken board sits atop the stairs at the entrance. My heart goes out to the bundles of energy who will be desensitized here. The enclosed playing area towards the back has been usurped by a junior college of commerce that towers over the original edifice. A more hideous structure couldn’t have been conceived of by sadistic minds. An empty classroom with a green board and wooden benches trigger no fond memories. I see no familiar faces. The teachers have probably retired or moved on.
Seeing the open field at the back triggers recognition and horror. The field is expectedly overgrown and unkempt given the monsoon weather. However, the open drain right behind the school wall and the reams of trash in it have no such excuses to offer. I wish I hadn’t come and tainted the rosier images in my memory.
We take a rickshaw back to Manish market. The wall outside our apartment has been “beautified” by the Shiv Sena, and they want to make sure you know. Shonu and Kamini buy some clothes after mild and cursory bargaining.
July 30: Juhu - Crossword, Cream Center
Had puri bhaji for lunch and then nap till 4pm. Then had tea and took Uber to Crossword in Juhu with Appa. Shonu bought 4 Asterix comics, Stories of Magic and Mischief by Enid Blyton and Ajaya - Duryodhana’s Mahabharata by Anand Neelakantan. Bought a belt for Appa.
Then took a rickshaw to Cream Center in Juhu. The rickshaw driver didn’t know the place and Appa gave him a piece of his mind. We eventually reached thanks to Google Maps. The attendant directed us to the elevator and greeted us at the entrance. We were seated in a booth in a separate section. A raucous and large party descended on the booths behind us. They were so loud that we had to ask to be seated in a quieter place.
Kamini had been to Cream Center in Chowpatty with Meera and Prema chithi and Gopal Mama in 1997-98 and had been asking to go there for a long time. I searched for and found this location in Juhu. She ordered a few different items that we all shared: World’s best nachos, American corn cheese balls, Bambaiya Ragda, Sizzling Paneer Chilli which looked and tasted amazing. Appa had salt caramel fudge ice cream for dessert. We ordered Sizzling brownie fundae which came on a sizzling plate with a brownie topped with ice cream. The ice cream was melting because of the heat. Unfortunately the brownie had walnut because of which Shonu couldn’t have it. She did have the vanilla ice cream topping and later ordered a strawberry ice cream on which she poured chocolate syrup. Everyone enjoyed all the items. Everything was tasty and not spicy at all. All in all a wonderful outing.
July 31: Flight to Los Angeles
Arjun invited us for tea at 5. Appa didn’t come. Just the three of us walked over. Thankfully rains have hit pause since we returned to Mumbai. Radha chithi treated us with tea and snacks - ginger cookies, potato chips, kachori, mawa cake followed by dosa and sambhar. It was a bit heavy. Spent a little over an hour there chatting with Arjun and Shamu about marketing and old family photos. Krishnarajan Chithappa gifted Shonu with a Parker pen.
Picked up vepalaikatti and mor molaghai from Tamilan shop on the walk back home. Appa had woken up and was watching Commonwealth games India vs Pakistan women’s cricket game. India was giving Pakistan a hiding. We showered and got ready by 7:45. Called Uber at 8:15 and reached airport by 9. The driver was driving a little rashly and wasn’t even wearing a seat belt. And the cab smelled of cigarette.
At the airport, it was chaotic. Two long lines snaked towards the counters and nobody knew which line was for which. An attendant belatedly clarifies. The line for those who had already checked in was longer than the one for those who were flying by the seat of their pants. Although we had already checked in online, we got in the shorter line. The strategy didn’t save us too much time. It still took us about an hour to drop off our bags. Good that we came early.
The airport has some stunning artwork, with walls, pillars and doors covered in ancient motifs, statues of gods and goddesses, and more modern themes from the movies. It was all behind glass and the reflections made photographing them a fruitless endeavor.
Flight took off late by about 25 minutes. It was a very smooth flight on a new Airbus A350-900 aircraft. The on flight entertainment system was touch screen based and very responsive, however the headphones were mono, which was disappointing. We were served a cold veg sandwich after take off which wasn’t extremely bad. I watched a Hindi movie - Laxmii featuring Akshay Kumar. It started out promisingly with Akshay playing a rationalist, but soon degraded into mystical nonsense. To make it worse, it was shoddily made. We all slept for a few hours and woke up with about an hour and half flight time left. They served breakfast, which had bonsai South Indian items - masala dosa, upma, uthappam. Shonu developed a cold and sneezed a few times.
Aug 1: Arrive in LA
Flight landed late at 5:45am in Munich. This and Shonu’s cold meant that we dropped the plan to go into the city. Our experience at Munich airport this time around was underwhelming. First of all, there was a guy who was admonishing passengers to hurry up and not sit near a toilet for more than 20 minutes. Considering that these were passengers who had just gotten off a 9 hour flight and had to freshen up, it was bizarre and rude. I wonder if white passengers would have been addressed thus. Racist undertones are lurking beneath the surface everywhere.
Next, we had to go through another security check to get to our connecting flight. I might have asked why but was too tired to. The post-security area was like a ghost town. Not a single shop was open. Granted it was early, but airports are supposed to be 24 hour establishments. Not even a bottle of water or a cup of coffee was to be found by dazed transit passengers. The airline water had to be discarded of course, prior to the security check. Even a lowly vending machine wasn’t to be spotted. Guess lost business and grouchy passengers don’t count for much. Gets my vote for crummiest transit airport.
Finally after a couple of hours, a duty free shop slowly rolled up its shutters. We got some water and chocolates. Then a Sissi and Franz deli opened up, and we ordered a pretzel, coffee and hot chocolate for Shonu. As luck would have it, the coffee machine broke down and no hot drinks were to be had. One coffee shop in the whole terminal and there too the lousy coffee machine doesn’t work. Silent scream.
Mercifully, the machine was fixed shortly and we were able to order hot drinks. It helped Shonu a little with her cold.
It took till 9:30 for our gate to be announced at which point we trooped towards it. Surprisingly, no ordered boarding here. After priority boarding, it’s a free for all. Chaos isn’t the exclusive preserve of India after all.
Watching Kaagaz, Pankaj Tripathi movie based on a true story of a living man, Bhure Lal, wrongfully declared dead by the corrupt state bureaucracy in collusion with his relatives. He fought to be declared living for years, forming the All India Mritak Sangh. He won his battle at last and now helps those who were in the same boat as him navigate the soulless system and the vermin who infest it. Masterclass by Pankaj Tripathi who brings the plight of the living dead to life with great pathos.
Saw comedy Suraj Pe Mangal Bhari featuring Diljit Dosanjh , Manoj Bajpayee and Anu Kapoor. Fairly funny in parts but predictable. Good performances by all.
Watched half of Tom Cruise sci-fi movie Oblivion
Flight arrives a little late. It takes us a while for luggage to arrive. Message Pavan and he comes to pick us up shortly.
Finally reach home at around 5:30 after what seems like ages since we left a month ago.